How to Winterize a Pool
Most pool owners accept “pool season” -- the warm, comfortable time of year when the sun’s shining, temperatures are high, and your pool is at its most appealing.
If you don’t live in the tropics (or south Florida), “pool season” or swimming season typically starts when annual plants begin to bloom in the spring and winds down when leaves begin to change color and temperatures dip in the fall.
The smart, safe, and most cost-effective long-term solution to these seasonal changes is to winterize your pool, which prepares it to endure cold temperatures and inclement frosty weather without risk of damage or deterioration.
But how do you winterize a pool safely, effectively, and affordably?
This guide will walk you through the whole process, so you can be ready to wrap up your pool season and protect your pool from the cold, ice, and other unwelcome wintery impacts that might otherwise make it harder to maintain your pool for years to come.
Why should you winterize your pool?
Most components of inground swimming pools (and above-ground pools for that matter) are designed to function in warm, enjoyable weather.
Their components -- and even the chemicals used to keep them clean -- aren’t meant to sit unused through the cold winter months, which can cause all sorts of problems if your pool water freezes.
Proper winterization prepares everything involved in using and operating your pool for these colder temperatures.
This means preparing your pool surface, the water inside, any chemicals you’ve used to keep that water clean, and all the pumps, filters, heaters, and other equipment through which water may flow.
Let’s look at each critical component you’ll need to winterize… and at the end of this article, we’ll provide you with a quick and handy checklist so you can make sure you’ve taken care of everything before it’s time to close your pool.
When should you start winterizing your pool?
The answer to this question depends heavily on where you live and what accessories you have -- for example, an outdoor pool without a heater should generally close your pool before outside temperatures drop below freezing, or 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
This means that if the temperature is below freezing at any time during the day or night, you should probably call it a season and shut things down.
If you have a solar pool heater or electric heat pump, you should still follow these guidelines, as neither type of heater is designed to work in cold temperatures.
However, it may be possible to keep your pool open year-round with a gas or propane pool heater -- but it’s likely to cost you quite a bit in terms of fuel usage, especially if you’re trying to keep the water toasty while it’s snowing outside.
The basic steps to properly winterize a pool
First…
Remove any accessories, toys, and nonessential equipment, such as removable ladders or steps, detachable water features, and other items you won’t use for the final pre-closing cleaning process. Store them safely in a shed, indoors, or in a secure place near the pool where they won’t be damaged by the elements or by random animals.
Next…
It’s time to thoroughly clean your pool water by removing any debris on the surface. Consider running your pool vacuum or pool cleaning robot now, to get rid of any remaining dirt and other junk on the pool floor.
You can also clean the bottom of your pool after the next step, but it may save time to do all your debris cleanup in one go.
It’s important to get rid of all organic debris before closing, because anything biodegradable -- leaves, tree branches, chunks of dirt, dead bugs, and so on -- can decompose and create stains on the pool surface, which you certainly don’t want to see when reopening your pool for the next swimming season.
Then…
After removing all visible debris, you should brush, shock, and sanitize your pool water thoroughly. We recommend adding 10 ounces of algaecide 60 per 10,000 gallons of pool water, and one bottle of metal remover or sequestering agent for the entire pool (or according to any usage instructions on the bottle).
Run your pool pump and filter system for a full day (24 hours) to allow the shock and sanitizing chemicals to do their work and clean every part of your pool.
Next…
After you’ve cleaned everything, drain the pool water -- for some types of pools. You may not need to drain every type of pool, and the degree of draining may vary as well. Fiberglass pools should never be completely drained. All you need to do is reduce the water level to just below the bottom of the skimmer line, which will be enough to protect vital components in your fiberglass pool. Keep reading for more info on proper fiberglass pool winterization...
We recommend using a special tool that can keep water out of the skimmer while retaining all the water in your pool. This can save you some major headaches, since we also don’t recommend draining your pool yourself -- let a pool professional help you drain off your pool water, if it’s necessary for safe winterization.
Put all your plugs in a secure place so you can easily re-attach them when re-opening your pool next year. If there’s space with your pool toys and accessories, that would be as good a place as any to store your plugs.
Next...
Blow out your pool's plumbing lines -- typically with an air compressor -- and plug all of them. We recommend adding a “Gizzmo” to the skimmer during this step, as mentioned above. A Gizzmo is simply a long, green tube used to block off the skimmer when it’s not meant to be used. You can pick one up on Amazon for a few bucks (it's the green thing in the image to the left).
Finally...
Cover your pool and secure your cover for the winter. If you’re using a vinyl or tarp cover, use a pump in the center of the cover to remove any storm water that may accumulate.
Mistakes to avoid when winterizing your pool
We’ve written extensively about winterizing your pool in the past, and in our decades as “pool guys,” we’ve seen a few common mistakes crop up for many pool owners when they attempt to close their pool for the winter.
If you’d like to get the full scoop, read our article on 5 common winterization mistakes. If you just want the quick and simple checklist, here it is…
Clean your salt generator, if you have one. Otherwise, your salt water system may not start up so easily next spring, if it’ll start at all.
Blow out your heater lines, if you have them. Remember, the “plumbing” we told you to blow out with an air compressor earlier includes everything through which water might flow, including the lines running through your pool heater.
Clean your filter! A dirty filter can be wrecked by freezes and thaws over the winter. Keep it clean to keep it safe and functional for your next swim season.
Put a Gizzmo in the skimmer line. Remember, you can get your Gizzmo on Amazon.
Turn off any electrical components. You don’t want your pumps and filters running in the winter, especially after you’ve drained and/or blocked off your skimmer line. You won’t be using the pool, so don’t waste electricity or risk damage to any important equipment by leaving things on after you’ve done the rest of your winterization work.
10 Steps to Winterize Your Inground Pool
When the long summer days come to a close, it’s time to think about how and when to winterize your inground pool. Some people don’t need to winterize their pool — we’re looking at you, sunbelt region! — but if you live in a colder climate, it’s a good idea to let your pool hibernate.
As with everything pool related, there is a specific process for winterizing your pool. It’s an easy process to follow, but
How to Winterize Your Inground Pool
Winter pool closing steps must be done in a very specific order to ensure an easy pool opening the following spring. Follow the guidelines below to close your own swimming pool this winter!
1. Remove Ladders and Accessories
Loosen the ladder anchor socket bolt. When it rises about 1/2 inch, knock it down with a heavy wrench. Wiggle the ladder loose so the pool cover will fit properly. Inspect your ladder treads closely for cracks, and tighten any loose ladder bolts. Most ladders can be stored outside, but plastic steps may do better if stored inside. Also remove any handrails, fill spouts, eyeball fittings, pool cleaners and skimmer baskets. Store in a safe place where you can easily find them again in the spring.
2. Balance Water Chemistry
It’s important to start winterizing with balanced pool water chemistry. Test and balance the water chemistry, and adjust any chemicals if necessary. Balance water chemistry a few days before closing your pool to allow the chemicals time to disperse. Adhere to the following ranges for balancing water chemicals:
pH: 7.4–7.6 ppm
Total Alkalinity: 80–120 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 200–400 ppm
Chlorine: 2.0–4.0 ppm
Brush and shock your pool to remove any algae or other organic materials before closing your pool.
3. Clean the Pool
Skim, vacuum and brush the pool thoroughly, in that order. The pool should be spotless when you cover it. Remove every bit of organic matter possible, and give the pool one final skim (if necessary) before covering it for the winter. The cleaner the pool is when you close it, the better it will look next spring. Any debris or algae left in the pool during closing will dilute the strength of the winterizing pool chemicals.
4. Lower the Water Level
Lower the water level of your inground pool between 6-12″ below the bottom of the tiles, if you have a pool safety cover. For solid covers, only lower the water a few inches below the skimmer. Never lower the water level more than 18″, doing so can increase stress on your safety cover and cause the cover to rip or pull the anchors out of your deck.
If you are using a solid winter pool cover, lower the water level 3–4″ below the bottom of the skimmer opening, unless you’re using a skimmer plug. Skimmer plugs seal off the opening of your skimmer and keeps water out.
5. Turn off System Components
Turn off the pilot, shut off the gas supply, and turn the gas valve to OFF, on your pool heater. For gas heaters with pressure switches hanging down connected to a siphon loop, disconnect the pressure switch to drain the copper tubing. Open the drain plugs on both intake and outlet headers, making sure your heater is free of pool water.
Shut off power to the pump, light and heater at the circuit breaker box. If you have a timer clock for your pool pump, turn it off and remove the timer dogs. Disconnect power to any other electrical components that you don’t want to operate during the winter, such as a salt system or chemical pump.
6. Add Winter Closing Kit Chemicals
For this step, we highly recommend using a chlorine-free pool closing kit. These kits come with everything you need, and are packaged according to the size of your pool. They include chlorine-free pool shock, a strong winter algaecide, a stain and scale preventer, a slow-release floater with oxidizing chemicals. Shocking the pool just before adding algaecide can be a problem, as high chlorine levels break apart the polymer chains in algaecide and render it useless.
If you are not using a winter closing kit, be careful when using chlorine floaters. They can sink, tip over, or get stuck next to a wall, which will stain a pool’s vinyl or plaster surfaces during the winter. Use a high quality winter algaecide, a stain and scale preventer (chelator or sequestering agent) and some form of oxidizer to winterize your pool. Also, be sure to use non-chlorine shock, or only use chlorine shock 5-7 days before closing, to protect your winter algaecide.
If you have a mesh safety cover, we recommend using a pool enzyme product to help control algae growth during the winter. Also helpful is to check the water chemistry during mid spring, about a month before opening, and add another quart of algaecide or refill the floating chemical dispenser.
7. Drain Pump and Filter
DE filters should be opened up, and the filter grids should be hosed clean and inspected for rips or tears (mild staining is usually OK). Cartridge filters should have the cartridge removed and cleaned thoroughly. In both cases, after cleaning, reinstall the filter media back into the tank for winter storage. Lubricate any filter o-rings you come across in the process.
Adding antifreeze to your pump can damage the pump seal, so this should be avoided at all costs. It’s much better to completely drain all the water from the pump and filter system, including the chlorinator and heater, or any other pool equipment containing water.
After blowing the lines, place your grid assembly or filter cartridge back in the tank for safekeeping during the winter. Secure the filter lid and clamp band securely before and after blowing lines. Loose filter clamp bands can cause the filter lid to blow off during start-up, with hazardous results.
8. Blow out Water Lines
The best way to avoid pool freeze damage is to “blow out the lines” when you winterize your inground pool. Use a small air compressor at low psi or a high volume blower, like a Cyclone vacuum/blower or a powerful shop vac. Blow air through all equipment and pipes, both to and from the pool, and use pool plugs to prevent water from flowing back into the return lines. You’ll also want to install a skimmer guard to absorb the pressure of expanding ice and keep your skimmer from cracking. If you want to add non-toxic pool antifreeze to the lines for added peace of mind, now is the time to do it.
9. Fill Water Bags or Lift Safety Cover Anchors
Safety covers will have a series of anchors around the pool, which are recessed flush against the pool deck while the pool is in use. Use an anchor hex key tool to twist the anchors and bring them up to the surface.
If you are using a solid winter pool cover that requires water bags to hold it in place on the pool deck, fill the water bags where they will lay. If filled elsewhere, be careful not to drag or drop the water bags as they are moved around the pool. Fill bags only 80% full to allow expansion as the water freezes. Keeping several small pails or pans of water around the pool is a good idea to keep birds and critters from poking holes in the pool water bags for a drink. If you want something a little more durable than thin water tubes, you can also try using a product like Aqua Bloks, which will hold up to many years of use.
Above ground pools should use an Air Pillow, also called a pool pillow or an ice equalizer pillow, to absorb the expansion of the ice and prevent the ice sheet on the surface from putting pressure on the pool walls. Only inflate the air pillows roughly 60%–80%, so you don’t burst them.
10. Cover the Pool
Skim the pool again if needed, so the pool is as clean as possible. Clean off the pool cover too, to avoid bringing dirt and debris into your freshly cleaned pool. As you spread the cover over the pool, inspect closely for tears or rips. If possible, move these problem areas to the deck or close to the edge, and don’t place your cover pump over the tears. Apply cover patches as needed — there are poly patches for solid winter covers, and mesh or solid patches for safety covers. Secure the cover with water bags (inground winter cover), straps and anchors (safety cover) or a cable-&-winch assembly (above ground winter cover), depending on the type of pool cover you’re using.
That’s all there is to it! Follow these steps, and you will winterize your inground pool in no time. Once it’s closed, keep your pool cover as clean and dry as possible, and adjust as needed to keep it secure. Remember that solid pool covers with water bags are not safety pool covers, and can be dangerous for kids or adults who accidentally fall on top of them. Restrict access to the pool area during the winter, and keep an eye on the kids!
We firmly believe that through joint efforts, the small business between us will bring us mutual benefits. We can assure you the product quality and competitive selling price of Swimming pool heat pump,Heat Pump for Heating,Heat Pump for Pool
